The Man and his Mountain

Overcoming poverty is not a gesture of charity. It is an act of justice. It is the protection of a fundamental human right, the right to dignity and a decent life. - Nelson Mandela

Although Cape Town is very westernized, it's far from free of poverty. There are probably more citizens in the townships than in the suburbs. The townships are frequent and overpopulated where as the suburbs are sparse and spacey. Even then, in the midst of those wealthy suburbs, you will find homeless men under trees and family's on street corners. 

Durbanville is a very large suburb and might be described as a "white area". However, it is a prime example of racial segregation. The center of Durbanville is very well structured. There are fancy apartments, fast food restaurants, holiday homes and a large 'Pic N Pay' Store. There aren't many black customers in 'Pic N Pay'. That's just how it is. The ironic thing is, you're barely ever served by a white person.

Walking down the main road, the apartments become less "fancy." 'Checkers' appears, the seemingly middle-class supermarket. 'Checkers' has an equal mix of customers. Black, white, coloured, everyone, anyone. Coloured isn't a racist term in South Africa, it's the official name for a particular race. Saying that, not all coloured people define themselves by the colour of their skin. Some are coloured by Culture. 

It's some-what of a modern race. When the apartheid ended, people could be with who they wanted to be with, regardless of their skin colour. Before that, it was illegal. The apartheid ended only twenty years ago, meaning democracy in this country is as young as I am. Alongside a new government and a new way of life, the ending of apartheid encouraged a baby boom. 

So you've passed 'Checkers' and you're still walking.  It's a long road. There are no more apartments. There's a China Town, a few individual businesses and a taxi rank. This part of Durbanville is home to the 'Shoprite' Store. If you're a white person in this store, you're probably the only one.

Plastic advertisements are replaced with painted walls and white stickers stamped "safe abortion" have appeared on every bin, post box and lamp post. You rarely see a white person. Only five minutes ago, you rarely seen a black person. You're wondering what has happened. Why do they live so close together yet live lives a thousand miles apart? South Africa's apartheid wound is yet to heal. It's going to take a lot of time and a lot of faith. People still hold hope in their hearts, they believe in South Africa.

You see success alongside progress alongside forgotten tin homes and angry citizens. You see faith and you see sadness. You see smiles and you see tears. There's a different township around every corner, there's a new born baby on almost every back and there's a man with a story under every road-side tree.

There's a certain homeless man in Durbanville, who's story I wish I knew. Some say he was once a child at our home. You often see him sleeping on the road side or sitting by the gas station. People are kind to him. In Scotland, most citizens would go out of their way to avoid homeless people. That's heart breaking and it's awful...but it's how it is, is it not? But here, this man, these people, it's incredible. A few days after Christmas, he was clean shaven and he had a new hair cut. His torn flats were replaced with flip flops and he wore new jeans and a woolen jumper. Someone thought of him.

He's never left in the rain. He sits inside the warm gas station, where he can watch TV and sip on a coffee. He always chats away to himself as if he's sat with his best friend. People pop in for airtime or to buy some treats. They will say hello to him and kindly be on their way. I'm going to miss this kind of human behavior. It's not even a behavior, it's humanity and it's how it should be. The people of this country carry a very special word in their hearts- Ubuntu. It is a way of life. What hurts you, hurts me. 

Some people blame homelessness on homeless people. I don't think that's fair. People don't choose to live  a life of suffering. Every man has a mountain to climb. Some are hiking Goat Fell on a warm summers day. Other's are faced with the rocky uncertainty that is Mount Everest. Back to the man in Durbanville, all he needs is a helping hand on his way back to contentment. The people of Durbanville are giving him that help. 

We are all at the fault of poverty, it is a human creation and It can be taken away with human effort. We all have the ability to take away someones pain and suffering. Family's don't need to starve in Africa, children don't need to die of diarrhea and babies don't need to die of thirst. Yet, they do. Every day, every hour, every minute, every second. People have forgotten how to help. They want to but they don't. They feel bad about it but they don't act on it. 

The next time your television advertises poverty, don't say ack shame and go back to eating your dinner. You don't have to pick up the phone and donate money either. Just do something that humanity gave you the ability to do. You don't need to go to Africa to find poverty... 

Go to Glasgow and buy someone a sausage roll.

To be continued...

Gugulethu Braii

I have an impulse to start every blog post with yoh! When you don't know what to say or it's too much to say or you don't know how to say it... just yoh. That sounds like it could escalate into a fantastic song but I won't go there. My room mate would definitely go there. We have recently amused ourselves with the likes of the Chitty Chitty Bang Bang tune. Anything goes, particularly Chilli Biltong. If you know what I'm talking about. Anyway, I need to put my thinking cap on. Let's start with steak and beer. Yes, again.

I've been working on night shift since January. That's a long time and because of that, I am completely nocturnal. It's an experience to say the least. I really enjoy night shift, especially recently as things have pleasantly changed. Instead of spending ten hours in one house, our shifts have been split. My most common shift involves working with the babies until 0130 and then with the oldest girls until 0700. I love it. It gives me the opportunity to experience the best of both houses. The little ones are always asleep when I arrive. At 2300, I take five of them to the toilet. This is always entertaining as some of them don't wake up throughout the entire process. I've become very attached to one of the little ones recently and I wish she could come home with me.

The little angels (sometimes) that I've been working with

I reached a new low last weekend. I had steak and chips for breakfast. It was 0700, I had just finished work and I knew weet-bix just wouldn't make the cut. I fried the steak, tossed in some onions, cooked the chips and topped it all off with a black pepper sauce. It was the best breakfast ever. I then went to bed and slept until 1700. Living life in the shadows.

Yesterday I went to Mzoli's, the out door party in Gugulethu - A Cape Town Township. As always, it was so much fun! Our ride to the township had a smashed wind screen and the driver's excuse was TIA - This is Africa. Mzoli's is famous for it's braii meat and I now know why! It was sooo goood. Have I ever written a blog that doesn't involve food?

After Mzoli's, we headed to The Location Township. If you've ever seen the movie Tstotsi, that's where it's set. It's also the setting of Blue Sky Freedom by Gaby Halberstam. This Township Party was a little more...Ghetto. It was great fun. However, everyone was looking at us, really looking at us. Not in a threatening way, just in an extremely-curious-who-are-you-where-do-you-come-from-why-are-you-here kind of way.

Our Lovely Ride

Katie, Me, Ruby, Knight, Emilio

Approaching Gugulethu!

Inside Mzoli's

Katie and Emilio...

Today is my room mate's birthday. She's happy that it's her birthday, she's not happy that we know it's her birthday. Don't ask why, I don't know. I didn't believe her when she insisted that her birthday was late July. I decided to investigate deeper into the case and discovered that it was today. She is twenty now. We went to the Beer Garden with Katie and Ruby. It was nice, I had nacho's.

I would have had steak but I couldn't afford it.

Sorry Bellville

Yoh, I can't believe it's June. I barely have two months left. That in itself is something to hysterically cry about. Anyway, before I move onto Part Three Of things i'll be greetin' about, I've really got to tell you what happened in Bellville. As entertaining as it may be have been, I'd rather visit the witch doctor. The following incident may be the result of my own karma. 

We were in Bellville and we were waiting to board our train. The crowd was growing  by the second, rush hour was at it's peak. The train arrived, the doors opened. People -illegally- crossed tracks and others hurried along the platform. These platforms aren't quite your 9 and 3/4, they are INSANE. It was an every-man-for-himself battle. Within a few, slightly confused seconds, everything's fine and you're on the train. Success. That's when the uproar breaks out. Phones, plural, were stolen. The particular culprits are some-what notorious. They board the train and swipe everything before doing a hop off and walk off. For the first time in my life, I laughed because I was in shock. I would like to use this space to say "Cheers Mum!" If everyone had baby socks sewn into their bra's, everyone would still have a phone. You're a genius, I suppose.

This whole situation is either karma for my glorifying the metro-rail or karma for my dissing the witch doctor's. If you're thinking what-is-she-on-about click here. 

I'm going to write about a nearby Township that's reached the news recently. It will be in my next post, so watch this space. I'll save thing's i'll be greetin' about for another time.

Until next time...

How About America?

I've tried and failed to write this post since I got back from Tsitsikamma. I've tried and failed serious, I've tried and failed witty. I don't really know why it's been so difficult, I guess I'm a little bit nervous. A huge process is about to begin and that process is going to consume me. To put it simply, here it is, how it is... 

I'M GOING TO THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA FOR A YEAR

And now, the details. I'm applying with an Organisation called Au Pair in America. I've started my application but it won't go live until I've had my interview back home. I thankfully fill all of the requirements, thanks to my time in South Africa. You need two hundred hours of child care experience, I have over two thousand. Here's the basics of Au Pair in America and what it's all about...

I'll be living with an american family in one of thirty available states. They will be my "host family" throughout the year. My duties will involve taking care of their children for up to 40 hours and five days a week. In return, I'll receive up to $250 a week and a total of $500 to study at a local college or university. Studying is part of the J-1 visa requirements. I'll probably take a creative writing or language course. 

Au Pair in America charge an all inclusive fee of around £399. I'm going to work my ass off in Scotland to raise that money. It can't be too difficult after raising £5400 for Project Trust. I'm thinking Buchanan Street Busking with my Djembe.

I'm simply making the most of opportunities available to me. It really is possible to see the world without owning a fortune. I don't need much spending money as I'll be earning within the first month. Au Pair in America is a popular organisation, the sister company to Camp America. I attended an APIA information session before I left for South Africa. 

As soon as I'm home I can finish my application and attend my interview. Hopefully I'll be accepted onto the program so I can begin the matching process. They say choosing the right family is more important than their location. I don't mind where I go but I'd be lying if I said I didn't have my eye on a few states. Louisiana, California, Nevada...Not to mention that the likes of Hawaii and New York are available.

I'm very curious about the USA. Like South Africa, it's a very diverse country. The politics and cultures are fascinating and will help me on my road to journalism. America is the next adventure for me. I've clearly caught the travel bug. Like my time in South Africa, the idea is to be immersed in another culture. I'll be living my year like an american citizen. I think it will be fascinating, to work with wealthy American Children after working in an African Children's Home. The mere thought of it is mind consuming.

How could I forget...

I'll be using my every free second to travel the states!

I mentioned APIA to my family before I left for South Africa. At the time they were most likely thinking it's just a phase. Unfortunately however...  they were also thinking my dreams of South Africa were just a phase! Going to the states is a lot more flexible. I'll be able to come home for holidays and I'll be getting paid.  After living on the equivalent of twelve pounds a week, i'm sure over one hundred and fifty will suffice.

The most important piece of information I can share with you is this... spending time in the USA will fund my return to South Africa...

Bakkie i'll Be Back

In my previous blog I wrote of Biltong and Birds, Travel and Transport: All of which are general things that I'll surely miss when I'm home. Here I continue, with more things that I'll shortly be greetin' about. It's quite difficult to write about these places and people, knowing that I'll soon be without them. 

Cape Town: The Mother City. It's diverse and it's fascinating, it's beautiful and it's bursting with culture. From the colourful mosques of Bo Kaap to the shining shacks of Kayelitsha and Langa, Cape Town is like the whole world in one city. Not to mention it's backdrop, the Waterfront, the Gardens and the old dutch architecture of Long Street. And then there's the wine farms, the extreme sports and the stunning coastline that reaches out to meet not one but two oceans - The Atlantic and the Indian. This city is just incredible, I want to live here.

Cape Town looking as beautiful as ever. View from Blouberg Beach.

                                      

Table Mountain: Table Mountain is a Natural Wonder of the World. It's beautiful and bizarre. I can easily pin-point my favourite Table Mountain memory. It was after midnight and Nelson Mandela had just passed away. The sky was so clear that you could almost see the milky way, even though we were just above the city. We had written a message in the memorial book to Tata Madiba when we decided to make the trip. I lay in the middle of the road, about half way up the mountain. It was peaceful and it was silent, we watched the stars. I then decided to take a roll down the road. It was incredible. I have literally rolled down Table Mountain.

On top of Table Mountain, View over Camps Bay with the Atlantic Ocean.

                                       

The Beach: The beaches are picture-esque, like post cards. White-gold sand with cool, clear, shark infested waters. Whether we want to surf, swim or simply sun bathe, there's always a beach for us. I love being in water so going to the beach is always a treat for me. One time with Yvi and Rachael, we REALLY went for a swim. We couldn't stop laughing the whole time as the currents pulled us back and forth. At one point, Rachael got herself caught in a whirlpool. It was all in good fun.

Surfing at Blouberg Beach. Well, at least TRYING to surf.

                                

Bakkies - Bakkies are essentially pick-up trucks. They are everywhere here, every second vehicle is a white Bakkie. I'm being stereotypical here but three type of people drive Bakkies. First, you get the big Afrikaans guy. His Bakkie is always spotless. Then you get the soccer mum who doesn't actually need a car that size. Sometimes her kids are sitting in the back. Then, you get the guys on their way to work... Bakkie overload! It's almost like a game of how-many-upright-people-can-we-squeeze-into-the-trunk. I think it should be legal to ride in the back of a Bakkie EVERYWHERE. It's so much fun. Think of the saved petrol when you can shove you're entire collection of friends and family into the trunk of your Bakkie.

Riding in a bakkie on the way to the beach. Surfboards and all!

                                     

Signal Hill: My favourite place in the entire world. From Signal Hill, Cape Town is a silent city. It's a beautiful golden glow that dips into the horizon where the waves come in. Table Mountain becomes a dominating sillhouete. You can hear yourself breathe. I'll never forget the feeling of sitting here with my friends, there wasn't a word between us as we gazed over Cape Town. 

Sitting on Signal Hill with my friends. Table Mountain to the Right.

                                      

Har De Daar

"What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what lies within us."

With less than eleven weeks to go, I can't help but wonder what I'll miss when I'm gone. There are so many details that I can't imagine my life without, even though they were once so foreign. Here's part one of my i'll miss you when i'm gone list. Reversed culture shock is headed my way and I'm terrified to face it. 

Biltong: My thoughts are drifting to beers and braii's. Biltong is raw, dried-out meat with nothing but a sprinkle of seasoning. It's delicious. Kudu, Beef, Springbok, Chili, Barbecue, Garlic...whatever, it's all incredible. I'll miss the Chili Beef Biltong from the local store. Biltong is a staple food of South Africa. You have to try it if ever you are blessed with the opportunity. It goes down nicely with a beer, more biltong and then some.

Chili Biltong, Chili Chili Biltong, Oh, Chili Biltong!

Trains: If you've seen a South African film, you're familiar with South African trains. They tend to play host to murders and muggings. I'm particularly fond of "Tsotsi". It's a brilliant film if never you've seen it. I happen to like the trains but don't get me wrong, I wouldn't dare use one after dark. They are safe to travel with during the day. They are also very cheap and efficient. If you look past the torn seats, "safe abortion" signs and vandalized walls, it's a nice ride. With the doors left open and the carriages over-flowing, South Africa's Metro-rail is much more thrilling than the likes of Scotrail. 

When there's no space on the INSIDE...Why Not...

Har-dee-Dars: Har-dee-Dar is what they scream every morning. It's an infuriating wake up call. I had a serious case of love at first sight with these birds. They are so cool and it's very fascinating that they are never not angry. They tend to attack the small ones at the Children's Home. That's not so great but it's just a display of Who's Boss and Who's NOT boss. They are strong birds. I like the way they waddle.

                              Hardedaardedarr! Bad - Ass Bird with an Attitude.                    
           

Blue Chickens: More commonly known as "The Guinea Fowl". The German's call them "Blue Chickens". That's so great to the extent that I can't call them by any other name. I don't know why they call them Blue Chickens. They are very shy, short and stumpy (the birds, not the Germans). But they are beautiful! The poor wee souls are always running around like it's life or death. I noticed these birds frequently on Robben Island. They must like the peace and quiet. Either that or they are sacrificial birds feeling guilty for their wrong-doings.

                               "Look at the blue chicken!" IT'S A BLUE CHICKEN.                
              

Mini Taxis: ARRIVE ALIVE! Cheap, efficient, terrifying, fun. Every country should have a line of mini taxis. When sitting in the front seat, one must play role of "conductor." That is NOT a cool job when people are screaming at you in several different languages. I love mini taxis, they're a cultural adventure. It CAN be very embarrassing when you're trying to holla one from the side of the road. A lot of the mini taxis have prayers written on the inside walls. I don't want to know why... not now, not ever!

Mini Taxi Rank. A bustling maze of joy and joy-ness..

Travelling: From the African Bush to the Extreme Sports of the Southern Coast, South Africa has so much to offer. The landscapes, cultures, politics and history are all so consuming. There's is so much to see and not enough time to see it. Travelling has been a huge part of my time here. I have so many incredible memories from my travelling antics. I'll miss the endless possibilities. 

The Worlds Highest Bungy - My Most Thrilling Memory

Belville's Bewitched but it's my Birthday

Today I turn twenty, yeesh. 

I'm on night shift. What a unique birthday, welcoming the day with bug eyes, exhaustion and a 4pm wake up. This blog is going to be very sarcastic because I'm in a very sarcastic mood. It's called denial. You will know why? soon enough. I'm actually glad I'm on night shift, it's a nice way to grow old.

I had dinner in Belville today, that was a first. Belville is that town that you can't avoid but don't deliberately linger in. It's a dusty, bustling town bursting with market shops and "safe abortion" signs. The strange thing is... I really enjoy this town. It's unique-dodgy-ness rather attracts me. While squeezing my way through the streets, a little white flyer was handed to me. 

"Get healed completely with our Powerful Herbs from Africa. The impossible...is possible" 

It then goes on to tell me how I could be completely cured of Diabetes, bad debts, my bewitched curse and mad people. I could also purchase a potion for good luck, a magic wallet and a larger penis. That was a joke. How fantastic is that? I'll put down my R50 Consultation Fee right away. That was also a joke. Anyway, I had a lovely day. It was a nice change of scenery.

Moving on, my budgie died. I know what your thinking. Didn't my child-hood-dog-come-best-friend-lover just die Yes. Well, so did my only two gold fish and my Canary. Maybe I will put down that consultation fee...

I really need to cry but I can't because I'm on night shift. I'll hold it in and then explode into tears of sorrow tomorrow. Bert dying was the cherry on top of my already crumbling cake of emotions. It's hit me even harder now that my Goldfish, Dog and rash decision of a Canary are all gone. Home will be lonely without them.

Speaking of home, that's where I'm going in August. I went to the Somerset West Immigration office today - in person. I knew I could only let go of my South African hopes and dreams if someone crushed them for me - in person. That's exactly what happened as the immigration officer skimmed over the lines of requirements, leaving highlighted not gonna happen's behind. I have a Plan B... I'll share it with you soon. 

Ah, sweet nightshift. I'm not in my usual house tonight. I'm with the slightly younger teenagers that like to play who's boss. Anyway, one of them just walked into another's bedroom - seemingly innocent until she slapped a sleeping girl across the face. Harsh! The eagle has gone back to bed, her prey is weeping under the duvet. I've writen a memo. All will be swiftly forgotten. 

There's not much else to say. 

To chase away your tokoloshe, please call (+27) 0786675543.