Off with his head...

07.09.2014

For the past week or so, Largs has been alive with the annual Viking festival. It's very exciting, an entire section of the shore-front turns into a viking village and the rest of the space is filled with hand-made crafts, worldly foods and fairground rides. One minute someones shouting "Hairy Beast Burger, Canny Beat it!" and the next minute it's "Get yourself a German Sausage!"

Down to the history: the Vikings came from Norway. The Scots didn't like it. At All. They fought it out like the big hairy men that they were. Scotland defeated the Vikings but lost a lot of men in the battle. After their success, they shot firing arrows into the egg-shell ships that were left behind the egg-shell vikings. There was an reenactment of the battle last night, it was very exciting and I think battle reenactments should become a Scottish Sport. It was great to see little kids on top of their parents shoulders screaming "Chop his bloody head off!"

After the battle, we were treated to a show of fire dancers and fire breathers. Talent. One guy singed his Viking beard but swiftly swatted it out. The Scot's got out their bows and arrows and we watched them shoot firing arrows into a Viking Ship, built with a purpose of being destroyed during this festival. The first woman to let an arrow fly set the ship alight, it was very impressive.

Next came the fireworks. They were incredible! I hadn't seen fireworks all year in South Africa so it was a nice treat.

Moving on, I GOT A JOB AND I STILL CAN'T BELIEVE IT! I went for an interview on Friday and left with a job. I passed the assessment with 59/60 and sold my mock item for 50,000 with a stake of 60% to a mock audience, it was a Dragons Den experiment to see how good your selling skills are. So my new job is with Stellar on behalf on Vanquis bank and I start on Monday. I can't wait. I now have something to keep me busy as well as the cash to pass my driving test and save for America.

I went to the shore to play my Djembe. I miss my drum circle so much. Mum messed around with her Poi's. No one told me to be quiet, that's always a bonus.

Drumming on the shore

Festival Fireworks at the Pencil

Viking Rage

Mum and her Poi's

Drum Drum Drum

Fire Breathers at the Festival

#ThisisNotTheEnd

I'm not long home from my Project Trust Debriefing course, a two-day shih-bang that's traditionally held on the Isle of Coll. If you haven't been following my blog, the Isle of Coll is the home sweet home of Project Trust, it's where I had my selection and my training. Debriefing is very important in any situation, it gives you a sense of closure. Closure is something that i've needed. It's difficult to look to the future when you're wishing you could turn back time.

I left Largs on Sunday, taking the train to Glasgow for my three hour train to Oban. I spent a night in a backpackers with the rest of the Project Trust group. We shared our very large debriefing with the volunteers from Malaysia and Hong Kong, who we hadn't seen since training over a year ago. It was so cool to see them and hear their really incredible stories that differed worlds apart from ours. The Malays were impressed with our South African dance moves, we were impressed with their traditional dress and fascinating lack of social skills (joke.)

Reunited with my RASTA SISTA

Dance moves to be proud of

Our night in the backpackers was great fun but a little too much fun for some, I won't mention names but you know who you are! The next morning was exhausting but we managed to wake up bright and early to haul our rucksacks to the harbour in time for the ferry. The ferry to Coll is about three hours long. I used that time wisely and finished my community report for Project Trust. Walking off the ferry brought on some serious de ja vu. The first time I ever stepped off that ferry, I never knew If I'd be coming back. It's been a long journey.

Arriving at the PT center was great fun. We all settled into our rooms and had a nice lunch. Sooner or later, it was time to get into the serious stuff. The whole day was spent reflecting on the past. We analyzed our years, took pride our achievements, realized how we had grown and discussed what we had gained.We spoke about our community reports, global citizenship and global issues that we had witnessed overseas, such as racism, religion, racial segregation and aids.

Each group chose a topic to focus on, ours was the issue of South Africa's Apartheid. Our main discussion went something like this;

Before arriving in South Africa, we only recognized the apartheid as part of South Africa's past. We never  expected to witness the mass effect that apartheid still holds over South Africa. Bars for specific races, superstores where only white people shop and racially segregated towns were few of the obvious  statements. Twenty years ago, black people wouldn't have shopped in that superstore because they weren't allowed to - by law. Apartheid ended a long time ago but it's still grasping onto South Africa. The issues aren't so obvious  in cities like Cape Town, where progress is fast and the past is a thing to be left behind you. It's in the small towns, here and there, where you notice the lingering stares. 

What we found most difficult to deal with was the racism. More specifically, racism from people our own age. Black, white, coloured, anyone, everyone. People our age were born into a democratic South Africa. They were born into an Apartheid-free South Africa. So where does the fear and hatred come from? I can only assume that it has been passed down through the generations that had to suffer the impact of apartheid. It's so frustrating. Falling in love with South Africa can break your heart.

Day Two - it was a day to put the past behind us and look to the future. How could our experience help us? How could Project Trust  continue to assist us? We discussed our hopes and dreams, plans and expectations. We learned how to make the most out of our year. We also discussed the nasty issue of our deportation. I'm confident that my appeal will be attended to; all I can do is wait and see. We also went to the beach.

Beautiful Coll Beach

This didn't work for me

It didn't really work for Katie either

Before our dinner, we had a short closing ceremony. The second John Fraser whipped out the poems, I knew I would be in tears. I was right, I was in tears. This is a poem by Robert Frost. It was also read to us on training, before our South African adventure even truly began. It holds a much stronger grasp on my heart now, after all that i've been through. The poem is called - The Road Not Taken.

Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,

And sorry I could not travel both

And be one traveler, long I stood

And looked down one as far as I could

To where it bent in the undergrowth;

Then took the other, as just as fair,

And having perhaps the better claim,

Because it was grassy and wanted wear;

Though as for that the passing there

Had worn them really about the same,

And both that morning equally lay

In leaves no step had trodden black.

Oh, I kept the first for another day!

Yet knowing how way leads on to way,

I doubted if I should ever come back.

I shall be telling this with a sigh

Somewhere ages and ages hence:

Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—

I took the one less traveled by,

And that has made all the difference.

The other South Africans and I had a surprise for our fellow volunteers. We sang "Nkosi Sikeleli", the South African National Anthem. Nkosi Sikeleli Afrika translates to God Bless Africa. We were definitely very enthusiastic with our singing. After the anthem, Kieran burst into Shosholoza, where we followed his random lead and sang the best part of that. After our lovely roast chicken dinner and white wine, we split up to get ready for the CEILIDH! Having a ceilidh is another good old Project Trust tradition. Oh my, it was so exhausting. I danced every second dance and had a drink every second break. It was very hot and sweaty, very busy and even a little bit violent but it was all in good fun.

Partners

The Malaysians in traditional dress

South Africa 13/14 Girls

Partner Love

Ceilidh Fun

The Lads

The whole night was great. The whole course was great. My journey with Project Trust isn't over, it will never be over. As Project Trust said, #ThisisNotTheEnd. PT really like their hashtags. I've got to say though, my new favourite Project Trust Hashtag has to be #ThisisProjectBus. It was a statement made by one of the volunteers who insisted (as a joke) that our fundraising money was spent on pimping out the new PT buses. All Abroad For Africa, Asia and The Americas!

#OverandOut

Settling into the unsettled

Don't get me wrong, I'm doing alright. Life back home is just far from life in South Africa. I signed on with the notoriously ridiculous job center, hoping they would support me while I find work. So far, they have told me I can't go to my Project Trust Debriefing and won't be paid until I've been here for three months. I was born here, I've lived here my whole life! That's what you get for spending a year doing something worthwhile - a slap in the face.

Not to worry, I'm definitely going to my debriefing. It's a closure course back on the Isle of Coll, where it all began. Apparently, I can only go if I sign something to state i'll come home immediately if I'm offered a job. I've also got to search for jobs while I'm on Coll. That's fabulous considering there's no wifi.There isn't even a phone signal. Shh. As far as not paying me is concerned, if they don't, I can't afford to sign on every fortnight. It's a lose-lose situation. They then had the cheek to ask me what i'll do if I can't find a job. Er, DIE?

Other than that, it's okay. I spend my days wondering what to do then realize I have no money to do anything. I'll walk the dog, clean the flat and pace around for a few hours. Speaking of the flat, that's my new home. Mum had to move here while I was away. It's only got one bedroom but that's okay. South Africa toughened me up. I might be moving in with my brother soon, that will be alright so long as i'm not considered the house maid. 

The neighbours across the hall are encouraging me to lose my faith in humanity. I'm yet to actually see them face to face. I don't fancy doing so, for fear of what loss I'll see in their eyes. They scream, they shout. They leave their empty blue bags in the hallway. They fight, they stab, they spray blood across our door. They play techno on repeat until four in the morning. They beg that we call the police and then treat us like dirt. They stole our complimentary box of DVD's and replaced it with a box of cereal. They accuse our dog of being a devil and then break their own window in.

Other than the flats of death, Largs is a lovely town. The views are beautiful and the sun sets are incredible. There will be a massive viking festival on soon. With that comes good entertainment and good food.That will be something to keep me busy,  I can't wait. An unaware local thought my dreads meant I was a viking. Oh dear, I suppose it doesn't get more Scottish than that. 

As soon as I have some form of income, I can move on with my America plans. I'm still confident that i'll be out there by February. Note that I said "out there" and not "out of here". There will be a detailed post on that soon. I'm thinking of starting a new blog called something like Conversations with a Generation. I've overheard and heard so much bad word recently that should definitely be publicized.

A beautiful view of Arran and Millport from Largs

And a lovely view of Largs Town

I Can't Believe You're Bloody Deporting Us

There's too much to write about my last two months in South Africa, so have some photographs instead. I've been back in Scotland for a week now. I'm still settling in, everything is very new and shiny yet it all looks too familiar. We didn't just leave South Africa, we got DEPORTED! Leaving in style. Visa problems. I've been banned from South Africa for twelve months but i've made an appeal because that just can't be. #ThisisprobablynotProjectTrust

I'm working on another post about being back home and my upcoming plans of the USA and Jamaica.

Last Shift Tantrums

The day we visited the Grand West Casino 

Blouberg Beach

Our second to last day at the Children's Home

With Katie on Blouberg

Drumming for the International Maths Olympiad at the University of Cape Town

Our very last day at the Children's Home

That time we went to Julians for a Braii

Chicken Braii Chicken Braii

When Katie and I had an end of year-hair crisis

Drumming on Long Street with Katie

University of Cape Town drumming

Mzoli's Drum Fun

The guy that pee'd in the plant pot

Two of my favourite people

The time Katie and I climbed Signal Hill to watch the Sun Rise and there was none

Johannesburg

Signal Hill, Cape Town

The Man and his Mountain

Overcoming poverty is not a gesture of charity. It is an act of justice. It is the protection of a fundamental human right, the right to dignity and a decent life. - Nelson Mandela

Although Cape Town is very westernized, it's far from free of poverty. There are probably more citizens in the townships than in the suburbs. The townships are frequent and overpopulated where as the suburbs are sparse and spacey. Even then, in the midst of those wealthy suburbs, you will find homeless men under trees and family's on street corners. 

Durbanville is a very large suburb and might be described as a "white area". However, it is a prime example of racial segregation. The center of Durbanville is very well structured. There are fancy apartments, fast food restaurants, holiday homes and a large 'Pic N Pay' Store. There aren't many black customers in 'Pic N Pay'. That's just how it is. The ironic thing is, you're barely ever served by a white person.

Walking down the main road, the apartments become less "fancy." 'Checkers' appears, the seemingly middle-class supermarket. 'Checkers' has an equal mix of customers. Black, white, coloured, everyone, anyone. Coloured isn't a racist term in South Africa, it's the official name for a particular race. Saying that, not all coloured people define themselves by the colour of their skin. Some are coloured by Culture. 

It's some-what of a modern race. When the apartheid ended, people could be with who they wanted to be with, regardless of their skin colour. Before that, it was illegal. The apartheid ended only twenty years ago, meaning democracy in this country is as young as I am. Alongside a new government and a new way of life, the ending of apartheid encouraged a baby boom. 

So you've passed 'Checkers' and you're still walking.  It's a long road. There are no more apartments. There's a China Town, a few individual businesses and a taxi rank. This part of Durbanville is home to the 'Shoprite' Store. If you're a white person in this store, you're probably the only one.

Plastic advertisements are replaced with painted walls and white stickers stamped "safe abortion" have appeared on every bin, post box and lamp post. You rarely see a white person. Only five minutes ago, you rarely seen a black person. You're wondering what has happened. Why do they live so close together yet live lives a thousand miles apart? South Africa's apartheid wound is yet to heal. It's going to take a lot of time and a lot of faith. People still hold hope in their hearts, they believe in South Africa.

You see success alongside progress alongside forgotten tin homes and angry citizens. You see faith and you see sadness. You see smiles and you see tears. There's a different township around every corner, there's a new born baby on almost every back and there's a man with a story under every road-side tree.

There's a certain homeless man in Durbanville, who's story I wish I knew. Some say he was once a child at our home. You often see him sleeping on the road side or sitting by the gas station. People are kind to him. In Scotland, most citizens would go out of their way to avoid homeless people. That's heart breaking and it's awful...but it's how it is, is it not? But here, this man, these people, it's incredible. A few days after Christmas, he was clean shaven and he had a new hair cut. His torn flats were replaced with flip flops and he wore new jeans and a woolen jumper. Someone thought of him.

He's never left in the rain. He sits inside the warm gas station, where he can watch TV and sip on a coffee. He always chats away to himself as if he's sat with his best friend. People pop in for airtime or to buy some treats. They will say hello to him and kindly be on their way. I'm going to miss this kind of human behavior. It's not even a behavior, it's humanity and it's how it should be. The people of this country carry a very special word in their hearts- Ubuntu. It is a way of life. What hurts you, hurts me. 

Some people blame homelessness on homeless people. I don't think that's fair. People don't choose to live  a life of suffering. Every man has a mountain to climb. Some are hiking Goat Fell on a warm summers day. Other's are faced with the rocky uncertainty that is Mount Everest. Back to the man in Durbanville, all he needs is a helping hand on his way back to contentment. The people of Durbanville are giving him that help. 

We are all at the fault of poverty, it is a human creation and It can be taken away with human effort. We all have the ability to take away someones pain and suffering. Family's don't need to starve in Africa, children don't need to die of diarrhea and babies don't need to die of thirst. Yet, they do. Every day, every hour, every minute, every second. People have forgotten how to help. They want to but they don't. They feel bad about it but they don't act on it. 

The next time your television advertises poverty, don't say ack shame and go back to eating your dinner. You don't have to pick up the phone and donate money either. Just do something that humanity gave you the ability to do. You don't need to go to Africa to find poverty... 

Go to Glasgow and buy someone a sausage roll.

To be continued...

Gugulethu Braii

I have an impulse to start every blog post with yoh! When you don't know what to say or it's too much to say or you don't know how to say it... just yoh. That sounds like it could escalate into a fantastic song but I won't go there. My room mate would definitely go there. We have recently amused ourselves with the likes of the Chitty Chitty Bang Bang tune. Anything goes, particularly Chilli Biltong. If you know what I'm talking about. Anyway, I need to put my thinking cap on. Let's start with steak and beer. Yes, again.

I've been working on night shift since January. That's a long time and because of that, I am completely nocturnal. It's an experience to say the least. I really enjoy night shift, especially recently as things have pleasantly changed. Instead of spending ten hours in one house, our shifts have been split. My most common shift involves working with the babies until 0130 and then with the oldest girls until 0700. I love it. It gives me the opportunity to experience the best of both houses. The little ones are always asleep when I arrive. At 2300, I take five of them to the toilet. This is always entertaining as some of them don't wake up throughout the entire process. I've become very attached to one of the little ones recently and I wish she could come home with me.

The little angels (sometimes) that I've been working with

I reached a new low last weekend. I had steak and chips for breakfast. It was 0700, I had just finished work and I knew weet-bix just wouldn't make the cut. I fried the steak, tossed in some onions, cooked the chips and topped it all off with a black pepper sauce. It was the best breakfast ever. I then went to bed and slept until 1700. Living life in the shadows.

Yesterday I went to Mzoli's, the out door party in Gugulethu - A Cape Town Township. As always, it was so much fun! Our ride to the township had a smashed wind screen and the driver's excuse was TIA - This is Africa. Mzoli's is famous for it's braii meat and I now know why! It was sooo goood. Have I ever written a blog that doesn't involve food?

After Mzoli's, we headed to The Location Township. If you've ever seen the movie Tstotsi, that's where it's set. It's also the setting of Blue Sky Freedom by Gaby Halberstam. This Township Party was a little more...Ghetto. It was great fun. However, everyone was looking at us, really looking at us. Not in a threatening way, just in an extremely-curious-who-are-you-where-do-you-come-from-why-are-you-here kind of way.

Our Lovely Ride

Katie, Me, Ruby, Knight, Emilio

Approaching Gugulethu!

Inside Mzoli's

Katie and Emilio...

Today is my room mate's birthday. She's happy that it's her birthday, she's not happy that we know it's her birthday. Don't ask why, I don't know. I didn't believe her when she insisted that her birthday was late July. I decided to investigate deeper into the case and discovered that it was today. She is twenty now. We went to the Beer Garden with Katie and Ruby. It was nice, I had nacho's.

I would have had steak but I couldn't afford it.

Sorry Bellville

Yoh, I can't believe it's June. I barely have two months left. That in itself is something to hysterically cry about. Anyway, before I move onto Part Three Of things i'll be greetin' about, I've really got to tell you what happened in Bellville. As entertaining as it may be have been, I'd rather visit the witch doctor. The following incident may be the result of my own karma. 

We were in Bellville and we were waiting to board our train. The crowd was growing  by the second, rush hour was at it's peak. The train arrived, the doors opened. People -illegally- crossed tracks and others hurried along the platform. These platforms aren't quite your 9 and 3/4, they are INSANE. It was an every-man-for-himself battle. Within a few, slightly confused seconds, everything's fine and you're on the train. Success. That's when the uproar breaks out. Phones, plural, were stolen. The particular culprits are some-what notorious. They board the train and swipe everything before doing a hop off and walk off. For the first time in my life, I laughed because I was in shock. I would like to use this space to say "Cheers Mum!" If everyone had baby socks sewn into their bra's, everyone would still have a phone. You're a genius, I suppose.

This whole situation is either karma for my glorifying the metro-rail or karma for my dissing the witch doctor's. If you're thinking what-is-she-on-about click here. 

I'm going to write about a nearby Township that's reached the news recently. It will be in my next post, so watch this space. I'll save thing's i'll be greetin' about for another time.

Until next time...

Bakkie i'll Be Back

In my previous blog I wrote of Biltong and Birds, Travel and Transport: All of which are general things that I'll surely miss when I'm home. Here I continue, with more things that I'll shortly be greetin' about. It's quite difficult to write about these places and people, knowing that I'll soon be without them. 

Cape Town: The Mother City. It's diverse and it's fascinating, it's beautiful and it's bursting with culture. From the colourful mosques of Bo Kaap to the shining shacks of Kayelitsha and Langa, Cape Town is like the whole world in one city. Not to mention it's backdrop, the Waterfront, the Gardens and the old dutch architecture of Long Street. And then there's the wine farms, the extreme sports and the stunning coastline that reaches out to meet not one but two oceans - The Atlantic and the Indian. This city is just incredible, I want to live here.

Cape Town looking as beautiful as ever. View from Blouberg Beach.

                                      

Table Mountain: Table Mountain is a Natural Wonder of the World. It's beautiful and bizarre. I can easily pin-point my favourite Table Mountain memory. It was after midnight and Nelson Mandela had just passed away. The sky was so clear that you could almost see the milky way, even though we were just above the city. We had written a message in the memorial book to Tata Madiba when we decided to make the trip. I lay in the middle of the road, about half way up the mountain. It was peaceful and it was silent, we watched the stars. I then decided to take a roll down the road. It was incredible. I have literally rolled down Table Mountain.

On top of Table Mountain, View over Camps Bay with the Atlantic Ocean.

                                       

The Beach: The beaches are picture-esque, like post cards. White-gold sand with cool, clear, shark infested waters. Whether we want to surf, swim or simply sun bathe, there's always a beach for us. I love being in water so going to the beach is always a treat for me. One time with Yvi and Rachael, we REALLY went for a swim. We couldn't stop laughing the whole time as the currents pulled us back and forth. At one point, Rachael got herself caught in a whirlpool. It was all in good fun.

Surfing at Blouberg Beach. Well, at least TRYING to surf.

                                

Bakkies - Bakkies are essentially pick-up trucks. They are everywhere here, every second vehicle is a white Bakkie. I'm being stereotypical here but three type of people drive Bakkies. First, you get the big Afrikaans guy. His Bakkie is always spotless. Then you get the soccer mum who doesn't actually need a car that size. Sometimes her kids are sitting in the back. Then, you get the guys on their way to work... Bakkie overload! It's almost like a game of how-many-upright-people-can-we-squeeze-into-the-trunk. I think it should be legal to ride in the back of a Bakkie EVERYWHERE. It's so much fun. Think of the saved petrol when you can shove you're entire collection of friends and family into the trunk of your Bakkie.

Riding in a bakkie on the way to the beach. Surfboards and all!

                                     

Signal Hill: My favourite place in the entire world. From Signal Hill, Cape Town is a silent city. It's a beautiful golden glow that dips into the horizon where the waves come in. Table Mountain becomes a dominating sillhouete. You can hear yourself breathe. I'll never forget the feeling of sitting here with my friends, there wasn't a word between us as we gazed over Cape Town. 

Sitting on Signal Hill with my friends. Table Mountain to the Right.

                                      

Har De Daar

"What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what lies within us."

With less than eleven weeks to go, I can't help but wonder what I'll miss when I'm gone. There are so many details that I can't imagine my life without, even though they were once so foreign. Here's part one of my i'll miss you when i'm gone list. Reversed culture shock is headed my way and I'm terrified to face it. 

Biltong: My thoughts are drifting to beers and braii's. Biltong is raw, dried-out meat with nothing but a sprinkle of seasoning. It's delicious. Kudu, Beef, Springbok, Chili, Barbecue, Garlic...whatever, it's all incredible. I'll miss the Chili Beef Biltong from the local store. Biltong is a staple food of South Africa. You have to try it if ever you are blessed with the opportunity. It goes down nicely with a beer, more biltong and then some.

Chili Biltong, Chili Chili Biltong, Oh, Chili Biltong!

Trains: If you've seen a South African film, you're familiar with South African trains. They tend to play host to murders and muggings. I'm particularly fond of "Tsotsi". It's a brilliant film if never you've seen it. I happen to like the trains but don't get me wrong, I wouldn't dare use one after dark. They are safe to travel with during the day. They are also very cheap and efficient. If you look past the torn seats, "safe abortion" signs and vandalized walls, it's a nice ride. With the doors left open and the carriages over-flowing, South Africa's Metro-rail is much more thrilling than the likes of Scotrail. 

When there's no space on the INSIDE...Why Not...

Har-dee-Dars: Har-dee-Dar is what they scream every morning. It's an infuriating wake up call. I had a serious case of love at first sight with these birds. They are so cool and it's very fascinating that they are never not angry. They tend to attack the small ones at the Children's Home. That's not so great but it's just a display of Who's Boss and Who's NOT boss. They are strong birds. I like the way they waddle.

                              Hardedaardedarr! Bad - Ass Bird with an Attitude.                    
           

Blue Chickens: More commonly known as "The Guinea Fowl". The German's call them "Blue Chickens". That's so great to the extent that I can't call them by any other name. I don't know why they call them Blue Chickens. They are very shy, short and stumpy (the birds, not the Germans). But they are beautiful! The poor wee souls are always running around like it's life or death. I noticed these birds frequently on Robben Island. They must like the peace and quiet. Either that or they are sacrificial birds feeling guilty for their wrong-doings.

                               "Look at the blue chicken!" IT'S A BLUE CHICKEN.                
              

Mini Taxis: ARRIVE ALIVE! Cheap, efficient, terrifying, fun. Every country should have a line of mini taxis. When sitting in the front seat, one must play role of "conductor." That is NOT a cool job when people are screaming at you in several different languages. I love mini taxis, they're a cultural adventure. It CAN be very embarrassing when you're trying to holla one from the side of the road. A lot of the mini taxis have prayers written on the inside walls. I don't want to know why... not now, not ever!

Mini Taxi Rank. A bustling maze of joy and joy-ness..

Travelling: From the African Bush to the Extreme Sports of the Southern Coast, South Africa has so much to offer. The landscapes, cultures, politics and history are all so consuming. There's is so much to see and not enough time to see it. Travelling has been a huge part of my time here. I have so many incredible memories from my travelling antics. I'll miss the endless possibilities. 

The Worlds Highest Bungy - My Most Thrilling Memory